The crisp air turns the tip of her nose a light shade of pink, and she buries her face into the soft cowl of her tunic. She shimmies her shoes off at the back door and turns toward the kitchen, which is still warm from a day of baking. “It smells like Heaven,” Deb Hopkins says as she sniffs the air, her eyes closing. Set atop her granite island is the source of the aroma — sourdough loaves in various shapes and flavors.
Mixed among the sights and smells in Hopkins’ Fairhope kitchen is something less visible but equally perceivable. There’s an enveloping, blanket-like warmth, a feeling she likens to “hygge.” Pronounced “hoo-ga,” hygge is a Danish word meaning “coziness,” a particular quality sought most often during long, cold months. “For me, baking bread is very much part of that,” she says. “It’s very comforting. What in the world is better than a warm slice of bread slathered in butter?”
Hopkins says that during her childhood, food merely served a utilitarian purpose. It wasn’t until she and husband Dennis married that a switch in her mind occurred. “I got inspired,” she says of her newlywed days. “I started having success in the kitchen, I enjoyed the process. When we had our first child, Sloane, I started thinking about nutrition in a different way.” So began her foray into breadmaking.
“We were grinding our own grain at that point,” Hopkins remembers, mentioning a time when their kitchen would be filled with 5-gallon buckets of wheat berries. But when Sloane began having food allergies, Hopkins dove into grain-free baking — and copious research. She discovered that people who have gluten sensitivities can often tolerate sourdough. The reason, in one word, is fermentation.
To simplify further, grain sensitivity can be linked to phytic acid, the naturally protective coating found on wheat berries. “If the phosphorous found in the phytic acid is not dealt with properly, it binds to magnesium, zinc, copper and calcium, which makes it hard to digest,” Hopkins explains. “Every culture has some form of grain, but every culture has always soaked, or fermented, those grains before consuming them because of that acid. If you soak the grains, it allows enzymes and healthy bacteria to break the phosphorous down so that it can be easily digested.”
About six years ago, Hopkins resumed breadmaking, this time a little differently. “I decided,” she says while slicing a loaf, “if I’m going to make bread, I might as well look at the best way for us to get nutrients and digest it. Sourdough was the answer to that.” Unlike traditional wheat breads that rely on yeast to rise, sourdough uses a “starter” made from only two ingredients: rye flour and water. After sitting, or resting, for days, microorganisms begin working and cause a reaction. “That’s the fermentation process,” she says, between bites.
Although sourdough can be traced back to ancient Egypt, it is an art that has perhaps fallen out of fashion, due in part to carb-conscious diets or time-strapped schedules. “I know it can be a little bit daunting,” Hopkins says, “but once you fold breadmaking into the rhythm of your life, it’s not a big deal.”
While it’s not a “big deal” to Hopkins, her family feels otherwise. “The liturgy of my family is that Mama makes bread,” says now 19-year-old Sloane. “We break bread together and have discussions. It’s restful and peaceful.” Younger sister, Skylar, agrees. “Our home feels so welcoming when Mama is in the kitchen,” she adds, reaching for another slice.
As is often common with talent, sometimes it takes a stranger to point out the obvious. Hopkins pauses before answering a question. “I guess it is a form of ministry to others,” she muses. “Giving the gift of bread is the perfect way to check on people. That’s part of the joy; it feels special and intentional. My kitchen is one of the few places where I’m really present, really intentionally in the moment.” And it’s in this cozy space, where warmth and welcome collide, that Deb has found her niche, where she’s found her way to give. One gift tangible, feeding appetites, and one unseen, feeding souls.
THE STARTER
Hopkins stresses the importance of using a kitchen scale when making and maintaining the starter. Choose a jar large enough to allow the starter to double in size.To make the starter, add equal parts of rye flour and water to a jar and mix. Cover the jar with a coffee filter or leave uncovered — air needs to be able to circulate. For the first two weeks, feed the starter twice a day, equal parts rye flour and water. After two weeks, feedings can be reduced to once a day, with equal parts water and all-purpose flour (instead of rye).
Light and Fluffy Brioche
Brioche will stay fresh up to 2 days, stored at room temperature and covered in plastic wrap. Deb Hopkins makes this recipe as-is from “Artisan Sourdough Made Simple” by Emilie Raffa.
4 cups plus 2 tablespoons bread flour
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/4 cups active starter
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup warm milk, whole or 2 percent
8 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cubed, plus more for coating
1 large egg
1. Add the flour, salt and sugar to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix briefly to combine. With the machine running, gradually add the starter, eggs and warm milk. Mix on low speed until a sticky, shaggy dough forms and all of the flour is fully absorbed, about 2 to 3 minutes. Cover and rest the dough for 15 to 30 minutes.
2. Fit the stand mixer with the dough hook attachment. On low speed, add the butter one cube at a time. Increase speed to medium and knead the dough until the butter is fully incorporated, about 5 to 7 minutes. When the dough is warm to the touch and looks shiny and smooth but will not come together into a ball, it is ready.
3. With floured hands, transfer the dough to a new, lightly buttered bowl. Cover with a damp towel and find a warm spot for the dough to rise, about 5 to 8 hours or more, depending on temperature. Once fully risen, cover dough with lightly oiled plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.
4. In the morning, lightly coat a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with butter. Remove wrap and place on a well-floured work surface. Pat the dough into a rectangle and roll into a log. Place into loaf pan, seam-side down.
5. Cover dough with a damp towel and let rise until puffy, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours or more, depending on temperature. The dough is ready when it has risen about 1 inch above the rim of the pan.
6. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Combine the egg with a splash of water and use to brush the dough until well coated in egg wash. Bake on the center rack for 40 to 45 minutes. If the loaf starts to brown too quickly, loosely tent with foil. The loaf will be golden brown and shiny when finished.
7. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack to cool completely before cutting into slices. Makes 1 loaf
Quadruple Chocolate Sourdough
Recipe adapted from Emilie Raffa’s chocolate sourdough noir, included on blog,
theclevercarrot.com.
3/4 cup active starter
2 1/2 cups water
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 cups plus 2 tablespoons bread flour
1/4 cup black cocoa powder
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1/2 cup each white chocolate, milk chocolate, and semi-sweet chocolate chips
rice flour, for dusting
1. In a large bowl combine the starter, water, sugar and vanilla. Stir with a fork. Sift the bread flour and cocoa powder together and then add to the bowl. Squish everything together with your hands until all of the flour is absorbed. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rest for 1 hour.
2. Add the salt and chocolate chips to the dough. Lift and fold the dough over itself several times and squish with your hands to incorporate. The dough will tear slightly as you fold, and the salt will not fully dissolve. This is normal. Work the dough as best you can until it comes back together into a rough ball. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and a clean kitchen towel. Leave it in a warm, sunny spot to rise. The dough is ready when it no longer looks dense and has increased in volume about 1 1/2 to 2 times its original size, from 3 to 12 hours.
3. Divide your work surface in half; lightly flour one side (for cutting) and leave the other half clean (for shaping). Remove the dough from the bowl and place onto the floured section. You do not need to ‘punch down’ the dough; it will gently deflate as you fold and shape it. Cut the dough in half to make 2 loaves or leave it whole for a single loaf. To shape, use a bench scraper to move your dough to the non-floured section. Gather the dough, one side at a time, and fold it into the center. Flip the dough over and place it seam-side down. Using your hands, gently cup the sides of the dough and rotate it using quarter turns in a circular motion. You can also pull it towards you to even out its shape. Repeat this process until you are happy with its appearance. Place dough into a cloth-lined 8-inch bowl proofing basket. It will need to rise again, about 45 minutes to 1 hour. It is ready when the dough is slightly puffy.
4. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line the bottom of a 6-quart Dutch oven with parchment paper. Carefully invert the dough into the pot. Make a shallow slash about 2 inches long in the center of the dough. Place Dutch oven with dough inside into the preheated oven, lid on. Bake 20 minutes. Remove lid and continue to bake uncovered for 40 minutes. During the last 10 minutes of baking, crack open the oven door. This allows the moisture to escape, leaving your bread with a crisp crust. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack for at least 1 hour before slicing. Dust with rice flour before serving. Makes 1 loaf
High-Hydration Sourdough
Deb also uses this recipe to make her Everything Loaf, with two exceptions: she uses less salt for the dough (only 1 teaspoon), and she spritzes the dough with water and adds her “everything” toppings just before baking. This loaf should stay fresh for 4 to 5 days. Recipe from “Artisan Sourdough Made Simple” by Emilie Raffa.
1/4 cup active starter
1 1/2 cups plus 1 tablespoon warm water
4 cups plus 2 tablespoons bread flour
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
1. In the evening, whisk the starter and water together in a large bowl with a fork. Add the flour and salt. Mix to combine, then finish by hand to form a rough dough. Cover with a damp towel and let rest 1 hour. After dough has rested, work it into a ball, about 15 to 20 seconds. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and let rise overnight at room temperature, about 8 to 10 hours. The dough is ready when it has doubled in size, has a few bubbles on the surface and jiggles when you move the bowl side to side.
2. In the morning, coax the dough onto a floured surface. Dimple the dough all over with floured fingertips. Gently shape it into a round and let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, line an 8-inch bowl or proofing basket with a towel and dust with flour. Using a bench scraper, scoop up the dough and flip it over so that the smooth side is facing down. Shape it again, and then flip it back over. Cup the dough and gently pull it toward you in a circular motion to tighten its shape. Place into the lined bowl, seam-side up. Cover the dough and refrigerate for 1 hour. You can chill this dough for up to 6 hours or more. When ready to bake, let sit at room temperature while the oven heats up.
3. Preheat oven to 500 degrees. Cut a piece of parchment to fit the size of your baking pot. Place the parchment over the dough and invert the bowl to release. Dust the surface with flour and rub with your hands to coat. Using the tip of a small knife or a razor blade, score the dough. Use the parchment paper to transfer the dough into the baking pot. Place the pot on the center rack, and reduce heat to 450 degrees. Bake the dough for 20 minutes, covered. Remove the lid and continue to bake for 30 minutes. Lift the loaf out of the pot, and bake directly on the oven rack for the last 10 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 1 hour before slicing. Makes 1 loaf
Seeded Pumpkin Cranberry
This loaf will stay fresh up to 1 day, stored at room temperature in a plastic bag. Recipe adapted from “Artisan Sourdough Made Simple” by Emilie Raffa.
Dough:
1/4 cup active starter
1 cup plus 2 teaspoons warm water
3/4 cup good-quality pumpkin puree (not pie filling)
4 cups plus 2 tablespoons bread flour
1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
Fillings:
1 cup dried cranberries, plus more for coating
1/2 cup pecans, finely chopped, plus more for coating
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
pinch each of ground cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon cloves
4 clementines (or 1 orange), halved
1 1/2 cups pumpkin seeds, for coating
1. In a large bowl, whisk the starter, water and puree together with a fork. Add flour and salt. Mix to combine until a stiff dough forms, then finish by hand until the flour is fully absorbed.
2. Cover the dough with a damp towel and let rest for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
3. In a small bowl, add cranberries, pecans, sugar, vanilla and spices. Squeeze clementine juice over the cranberries and pecans. Stir well to combine. Do not drain.
4. After the dough has rested, add the cranberries and pecans, along with juice, to the bowl. Gently knead the fillings to incorporate filling, about 1 minute.
5. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and let rise at room temperature for about 6 to 8 hours, or until double in size.
6. Remove the dough onto a lightly floured surface. Shape it into an oval and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, line a 10-inch oval proofing basket with a towel and set aside. Spread the pumpkin seeds on a damp kitchen towel.
7. With floured hands, gently cup the dough and pull it toward you to tighten its shape. Brush the surface and sides of the dough with water. Using a bench scraper, place the dough onto the pumpkin seeds, wet side down. Lift up the sides of the towel and rock it back and forth to coat the dough. Place the dough in the basket, seam-side up.
8. Cover the dough and let rest until puffy but not fully risen, about 30 minutes to 1 hour.
9. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Cut a sheet of parchment paper to fit the size of your baking pot.
10. Place the parchment over the dough and invert the basket to release. Make a long cut down the length of the dough using the tip of a small serrated knife or a razor blade. Use the parchment paper to transfer the dough into the baking pot.
11. Bake on the center rack for 20 minutes, covered. Remove lid and tent with aluminum foil. Continue baking for 40 minutes. Cool for 1 hour before slicing. Makes 1 loaf
FOLDING IN TIME
Hopkins acknowledges that baking bread can seem daunting. She went through several cookbooks before landing on Emilie Raffa’s “Artisan Sourdough Made Simple.” Raffa’s technique is easier for Hopkins to “fold” into her daily rhythm. The cookbook is available through Amazon.
Country Farmhouse White
This sandwich loaf will stay fresh up to 3 to 5 days, stored in a plastic bag at room temperature. Recipe from “Artisan Sourdough Made Simple” by Emilie Raffa.
1/3 cup active starter
1 1/4 cups warm water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon oil, plus more for coating the pan
3 1/3 cups bread flour
3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1. In a large bowl, whisk the starter, water, sugar and oil together with a fork. Add the flours and salt. Combine to form a rough dough, then finish mixing by hand to absorb all the dry bits of flour. Cover the dough with a damp towel and let rest for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
2. After the dough has rested, work it into a semi-smooth ball, about 20 seconds. The dough will feel stiff but much softer than earlier. Cover the bowl with a damp towel and let rise at room temperature, until double in size, about 8 to 10 hours.
3. Remove the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Gently dimple the surface of the dough with your fingertips to release any large air bubbles. Roll the dough into a log, tucking the ends underneath. Let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Meanwhile, lightly coat a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with oil. With floured hands, cup the dough and pull it toward you to tighten its shape. Place into loaf pan, seam side down. Cover the dough and let rest until it has risen about 1 inch above the rim of pan, about 1 to 2 hours, depending on temperature.
4. Preheat oven to 375. Bake the dough on the center rack for about 40 to 45 minutes. The loaf will be beautifully risen and golden brown when ready. Cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then transfer the loaf to a wire rack to cool completely. Makes 1 loaf
