The pear tree was hiding at the back of the empty property, wedged next to a tall loquat tree and a bushy fig. A strong smell of cider hit the nose as I approached the tree, as fruit lay wasting on the ground. The house that once presided over these three fruit trees had since been torn down, but the trees stood in evidence that there used to be a kitchen in close proximity. Someone once waited in anticipation for the late spring loquat fruit, the summer figs and the early fall pears. Each seasonal bounty no doubt turned into breads, pies, jams and bowls of sweet and juicy fruit ready for enjoying.
All three of these fruits have been cultivated in fields and kitchen gardens since the earliest settlers, and are now a firmly planted tradition in south Alabama gardens. All produce well and can withstand the Gulf Coast’s mild days and occasional frosts, but none make you think of fall like the pear.
Unlike the soft pears that you find at grocery stores — like the Bartlett — Asian pears remain firm and crunchy when ripe, like an apple. Nicknamed sand pears because of the slightly gritty texture of the tough peel, these fruits are known as cooking pears and are commonly turned into pies and sauce. The peel is not only thick but mottled, too, making them less attractive than their softer cousins. But don’t let the brown-speckled exterior fool you. If the birds are enjoying their fill, there’s no reason you can’t, too!
Silverhill farmer Karl Brantley remembers two sand pear trees his grandmother had when he was a boy. “She would have us climb the tree and harvest all the pears, and she would peel and slice them for pies and preserves,” he remembers. “Sand pears are called hard pears for good reason!”
Mobile’s Lenore Johnson says she has already harvested all her sand pears for the year. “I passed them off to my 92-year-old mom, Anita Toole. She and her sister peeled and diced and cooked them all down for pear preserves to give to the Little Sisters to sell at the fall festival.”
Taking the last ripe fruits from the obliging tree myself, I filled a grocery sack and took them home to peel and chop, stir and bake into a cake that is perfect for sharing over a cup of hot coffee. Even if fall temperatures have not yet come, the season is alive in the kitchen.
Sand Pear Cardamom Bundt Cake
Sand pears are a type of Asian pear that thrives in the climate of the Deep South. They have a tough, gritty peel (hence their name), but you can leave the peel on for this recipe if you prefer.
Serves 12-15
For the fruit:
3 cups Asian pears, peeled and diced
1 cup chopped pecans
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/3 cup granulated sugar
For the cake:
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamon
1/3 teaspoon ground ginger
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup vegetable oil
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 large eggs
For the glaze:
1/2 cup unsalted butter sugar
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
2 teaspoons heavy whipping cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease and flour a 12-cup bundt pan and set aside.
2. In a medium-sized bowl, combine the pears with the pecans, 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon of cardamom and 1/3 cup of sugar. Set aside.
3. In a large mixing bowl, combine all the dry cake ingredients and whisk gently to blend well. Stir in the oil, vanilla and eggs and mix until well blended. The dough will be very stiff, so don’t over-mix. Stir in the fruit and nut mixture until combined. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean.
4. Cool the cake in the pan on a wire rack for 15 minutes, then turn out onto the rack to cool completely. Transfer the cake to a serving plate.
5. While the cake cools, combine all glaze ingredients in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring frequently. Bring to a boil and reduce heat slightly, stirring until sugar completely dissolves. Remove from heat and let stand until slightly cooled, then spoon or pour over cake and serve.