On US 98, in the former Blue Marlin building, a neighborhood seafood joint that began serving fried seafood to the local community in 1981, David Cooper has created a cheerful, weathered storefront welcoming guests to a new era of fresh seafood and family-friendly service. Ole Barnwell Cafe is the latest venture from Cooper Restaurant Group. A fish-shaped sign directs patrons to the main entrance, where they discover an eclectically decorated dining room with items sourced and curated by Mr. Cooper himself. From a skyline painted on a piece of driftwood above the host stand to vintage advertisements adorning the walls, the decor is quintessentially local, providing a warm, welcoming experience to match the menu.
“It’s a bit of a blend — Southern cooking meets seafood, homestyle meets the Causeway experience,” says general manager Jared Lisenby, explaining Ole Barnwell Cafe’s cuisine. The menu features beloved Southern classics like country fried steak alongside seafood favorites like crab cakes. Other items include nostalgic favorites from within Cooper’s restaurants, like Bluegill’s tuna dip. Whether in the mood for comfort food or a fresh catch, there’s something for everyone.
Prior to his role at Ole Barnwell Cafe, Lisenby worked at Felix’s, so he was thrilled to stay within the Cooper Restaurant Group family, assisting with the new restaurant. “I want people to have a Cooper-level experience at a reasonable price in their hometown area,” he says. “We’re here to serve the community of Barnwell.”
The back of the restaurant houses Supper Club Light — a members club that moved after the original building burned down — but Lisenby is focused on the main restaurant serving the public. Here, guests have their choice of sitting at booths decorated with green-and-white checkered tablecloths, at wooden tables or at the bar. The space is filled with Mr. Cooper’s decorations, sure to be conversation starters, just like the food itself. One of Lisenby’s favorite dishes is the prime rib French dip sandwich. And one can never go wrong with the catch of the day, which varies weekly and is available in different styles, from blackened to meuniere.
Whether stopping in for Southern fare or seafood, guests can expect Lisenby and a team of talented chefs and staff to provide a homestyle atmosphere and delicious food. “Mr. Cooper has a long legacy of really successful restaurants here in the Bay area,” Lisenby says. “We’re happy to come in and be part of the community.”
On the Menu
CRAB CAKES
The crab meat is the star of the show in these delicious cakes served with a side of tangy remoulade sauce.
FILET MIGNON
A juicy steak, still sizzling, is expertly cooked for a rich, indulgent bite and served with a choice of two Southern sides.
ONE-ONE-ONE BABY LOAVES
A soft loaf with crispy edges provides a bed for shrimp, oysters or chicken and is dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles and tartar sauce.
CATCH OF THE DAY
This week’s catch featured speckled trout perfectly grilled and seasoned with lemon for brightness and acidity.
Ole Barnwell Cafe • 8594 US-98, Fairhope. 431-6113. Facebook
Thu 5 – 9 p.m., Fri – Sun 11 a.m. – 9 p.m., closed Mon – Wed
