The interior of The Royal Scam glows as lights in black fixtures beckon diners in. White tablecloths bear wine glasses, silverware and linens. This elegant, inviting atmosphere on the corner of Royal and Government streets is thanks to years of quality service and the nerve to try new things.
“Evolve or dissolve.” This is owner David Rasp’s mantra, and part of the reason The Royal Scam is still here. After establishing Heroes Sports Bar and Grille downtown, Rasp started The Royal Scam in 2006. The restaurant has evolved over the years; the original tapas and drinks menu transitioned into separate menus for lunch and dinner. Its biggest pivot came with the pandemic, during which the restaurant remained closed for 18 months. “When a restaurant is closed for that long, you assume it’s not coming back,” says Rasp.
But his mantra stuck, and after a few adjustments, the restaurant reopened in late 2021. The Royal Scam sharpened its focus on dinner service and ambiance. “Our ability to execute well at night was greatly enhanced by not doing the day thing,” says Rasp. Upon reopening, the tables sported tablecloths — something Rasp swore he’d never use until he saw the effect they had on the restaurant’s atmosphere — and the menu was amplified. Chef Jonathan Stern created new dishes for the new vibe and elevated classic items. “He sets a high bar,” says Rasp. “He bridges the gap between things that are not foreign to people, but he adds his own touch.”
The combination of the familiar and the experimental works well, and the restaurant is a collaborative environment between Rasp and the staff. Appetizers like the Hanoi shrimp — featuring Gulf shrimp breaded with green rice flakes and served with accompanying sauces that tie everything together — expand the palate and entertain the senses. The market catch, the soup and the creme brulee offerings rotate, with the latter coming in different specialty flavors depending on Stern’s inspirations that week. The redfish is another popular choice, served with fried polenta cakes and roasted Brussels sprouts that are both exciting and comforting. A quick remodel last fall amplifies the ambiance. The yellow walls were painted black, and a booth and banquette were added to the dining area. Renovated restrooms ensure that the entire Royal Scam experience is top-notch from start to finish.
After years on Royal Street, The Royal Scam continues to innovate and bring new experiences to downtown Mobile. “We are the only fine-dining restaurant on the parade route during Mardi Gras,” says Rasp. “I love Mobile, and when people come to dine in with us, it’s a big deal to me.”
On the Menu
HANOI SHRIMP
Shrimp kabobs are breaded with green rice flakes for a crunchy, one-of-a-kind appetizer. Soy garlic chili dipping sauce adds a hint of tang and wasabi mayo gives both heat and creaminess.
COFFEE BRAISED SHORT RIBS
The flavors of coffee and red wine combine to make these short ribs the definition of flavorful. Creamy Parmesan polenta and grilled asparagus are perfect accompaniments.
TWICE COOKED PORK BELLY
Pork belly is cooked and topped with bacon. The ginger apple gastrique adds sweetness and the shaved Brussels sprout salad adds freshness to this indulgent small plate.
CREME BRULEE
A rich, creamy dessert gets a slight crunch thanks to a layer of caramelized sugar. The flavors of this diner-favorite dessert rotate, with past renditions including butterscotch, heavenly hash and orange ginger.
The Royal Scam • 72 S Royal St., Mobile. 432-7226 • royalscammobile.com
Mon – Sat 5 – 9 p.m., closed Sunday
